여주 열매 추출물의 기능성화장품 소재 특성

김현우; 신혜진; 황단비; 이지은; 정향리; 김동욱; Hyun-woo Kim; Hyejin Shin; Danbi Hwang; Jieun Lee; Hyangli Jeong; Donguk Kim

Korean Chemical Engineering Research, Vol.53, No.3, 289-294, June, 2015

DOI10.9713/kcer.2015.53.3.289 Export Citation

여주 열매 추출물의 기능성화장품 소재 특성

Functional Cosmetic Characteristics of Momordica charantia Fruit Extract

김현우, 신혜진, 황단비, 이지은, 정향리, 김동욱 ^†

인제대학교 제약공학과, 621-749 경남 김해시 어방동 607번지

Hyun-woo Kim, Hyejin Shin, Danbi Hwang, Jieun Lee, Hyangli Jeong, and Donguk Kim^†

Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University, 607 Eobang-dong, Gimhae, Gyongnam 621-749, Korea

E-mail:

초록

본 연구에서는 여주열매의 열수 및 에탄올 추출물에서 기능성화장품소재로서의 가능성을 검토하였다. 여주열매의 열수 및 에탄올 추출물은 유효성분으로 폴리페놀의 함량이 각각 69.45±0.07 mg/g, 70.87±0.06 mg/g로 높은 농도를 나타내었다. 여주열매의 열수 및 에탄올 추출물은 세포독성시험(MTT assay) 결과, 100~1,000 μg/ml 범위의 농도에서 전혀 세포독성을 나타내지 않았다. 미백효과 시험결과 tyrosinase 억제능은 대조군인 arbutin 보다는 다소 낮았으나, DOPA 산화억제효과는 arbutin 보다 우수하였다. 주름개선 효과는 elastase 억제효과로 평가되었으며 열수 및 에탄올 추출물은 대조군인 adenosine 보다는 다소 떨어졌으나 농도가 증가할수록 비슷한 수치를 보여주었다. 여주열매 추출물을 함유한 액제 및 로션제의 온도 안정성 시험결과,액제는 28일 동안 pH, 점도, 외관의 변화가 안정적이었으나 로션 제형의 경우 점도의 변화가 심하여 제형의 보완이 필요한 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 여주열매의 열수 및 에탄올 추출물은 필요에 따라 미백 혹은 주름개선 기능성화장품소재로서 높은 가능성을 보여주었다.

In this research, water and ethanol extract of Momordica charantia shells, fruits and seeds were tested to see possibility as natural functional cosmetic agent. Water and ethanol extract showed 69.45 mg/g and 70.87 mg/g polyphenol concentration, respectively. Momordica charantia water and ethanol extracts did not indicate cell toxicity up to 1,000 μg/mL concentration in MTT assay. Tyrosinase inhibition effects of water and ethanol extract were lower than arbutin, however, ethanol extract showed better DOPA oxidation inhibition effect than arbutin. Elastase inhibition effects of ethanol extract displayed similar efficacy with adenosine at higher concentrations. Solution formulations (5% extract) were stable for 28 days in both extracts, however, lotion formulation (1% extract) showed considerable variation in viscosity whereas ethanol extraction indicated relative stability. In conclusion, water and ethanol extract of Momordica charantia shells, fruits and seeds indicated strong possibility for whitening and antiwrinkle functional cosmetic ingredient.

Keywords:Momordica charantia;Whitening;Anti-wrinkle;Safety;Stability

[References]

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Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, http://www.law.go.kr/main.html.
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Kim T, Kim S, Kang WY, Baek H, Jeon HY, Kim BY, Kim CG, Kim D, Korean J. Chem. Eng., 28(9), 1839 (2011)
Kim JY, Yang HJ, Lee KH, Jeon SM, Ahn YJ, Won BR, Park SN, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 33, 165 (2007)
Jeong HL, Kim HW, Kim JH, Kim JH, Kim D, Korean Chem. Eng. Res., 50(4), 610 (2012)
Blois MS, Nature, 181, 1199 (1958)
KDA Textbook Editiong Board, Dermatology, 5th Ed., Ryo Mook Gak, Seoul(2008). (2008)

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[1] Health Care Industry White Paper, KHIDI (2012). (2012)

[2] Korea Minstry of Food and Drug Safety, http://www.mfds.go.kr/index.do (2014). (2014)

[3] Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, http://www.law.go.kr/main.html.

[4] Kim JD, Kim SJ, Kim HS, Park KH, Lee HS, Jin JE, “New Cosmetology,” 2nd Ed., Dongwha Publishing, (2004). (2004)

[5] ECOCERT, http://www.ecocert.com(2014). (2014)

[6] Muley B, Dhongade H, Upadhyay A, Pandey A, Int. J. Herbal Drug Res., 1, 5 (2012)

[7] Kubola J, Siriamornpun S, Food Chem., 110, 881 (2008)

[8] Korean Dongeuibogam, http://hidream.or.kr/dongeuibogam/donguibogam_main.html, 2013. (2013)

[9] Kim T, Kim HJ, Cho SK, Kang WY, Baek H, Jeon HY, Kim B, Kim D, Korean J. Chem. Eng., 28(1), 424 (2011)

[10] Pharmacognosy Research Associate, “Modern Pharmacognosy,” Hak Chang Publishing (2000). (2000)

[11] Boo HO, Lee HH, Lee JW, Hwang SJ, Park SU, Korean J. Medicinal Crop Sci, 17, 15 (2009)

[12] Mosmann T, J. Immunol. Methods, 65, 55 (1983)

[13] Kim T, Kim S, Kang WY, Baek H, Jeon HY, Kim BY, Kim CG, Kim D, Korean J. Chem. Eng., 28(9), 1839 (2011)

[14] Kim JY, Yang HJ, Lee KH, Jeon SM, Ahn YJ, Won BR, Park SN, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 33, 165 (2007)

[15] Jeong HL, Kim HW, Kim JH, Kim JH, Kim D, Korean Chem. Eng. Res., 50(4), 610 (2012)

[16] Blois MS, Nature, 181, 1199 (1958)

[17] KDA Textbook Editiong Board, Dermatology, 5th Ed., Ryo Mook Gak, Seoul(2008). (2008)