경옥가루의 물리화학적 특성 및 화장품 제형 응용 연구

김경미; 김용우; 홍인기; 박수남; Kyoung Mi Kim; Yong Woo Kim; In Gi Hong; Soo Nam Park

Applied Chemistry for Engineering, Vol.29, No.1, 81-96, February, 2018

DOI10.14478/ace.2017.1106 Export Citation

경옥가루의 물리화학적 특성 및 화장품 제형 응용 연구

Physicochemical Properties of Jadeite Powder and Its Application to Cosmetic Formulations

김경미, 김용우, 홍인기, 박수남^†

서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과, 화장품종합기술연구소 코스메틱 융⋅복합산업 지원센터

Kyoung Mi Kim, Yong Woo Kim, In Gi Hong, and Soo Nam Park^†

Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Cosmetic Industry Coupled Collaboration Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology, 232 Gongneung-ro, Nowon-gu, Seoul 01811, Korea

E-mail:

초록

본 연구에서는 천연 소재인 경옥가루의 물리화학적 특성을 조사하고 이를 함유한 워시오프 팩과 리퀴드 파운데이션을 제조하였다. 또한 이들 제형을 대상으로 각 제형이 주는 효과와 사용자 관능 평가, 제형 안정성 및 피부 안전성 평가를 수행하였다. 워시오프 팩 중의 경옥가루의 함량이 증가할수록 원적외선 방사율과 방사에너지 값이 증가하였고, 경옥가루를 3% 함유한 제품에서는 피부 적용 시 피부 온도가 약 0.5 ℃ 상승하였다. 경옥가루를 첨가한 리퀴드파운데이션은 피부 본래의 색을 더욱 선명하게 표현할 수 있는 채도를 나타냈다. 경옥가루를 첨가한 워시오프 팩과 리퀴드 파운데이션은 각각의 수분 보유량이 최대 5.0% 및 63.0%로 나타났다. 사용자 관능 평가에서 경옥가루를 함유한 워시오프 팩 제형은 피부친화력, 밀착력, 가려움 및 촉촉함을 개선시켰다. 경옥가루를 함유한 리퀴드 파운데이션도 대조군 제형과 비교했을 때 커버력을 제외한 모든 항목에서 개선이 이루어졌다. 경옥가루 함유 제형에 대해 8주간 안정성 평가를 한 결과 육안상으로 변색이나 분리현상은 관찰되지 않았으며 pH는 8주까지, 점도는 4주까지 안정함을 확인하였다. 또한, 피부 안전성 평가에서 경옥가루 함유 제형은 모두 자극이 없는 것으로 나타났다. 결론적으로, 경옥 가루는 무기안료로써 안정성과 안전성이 확보된 새로운 다기능 소재로써 화장품에 응용 가능성이 있음을 시사하였다.

In this study, physicochemical properties of the natural jadeite powder were investigated and also the wash-off pack and liquid foundation containing the jadeite powder were prepared. In addition, each of these formulations was evaluated by various functional effects, sensory evaluation, stability and skin safety. In the wash-off pack, the far-infrared ray emissivity and radiation energy values increased as a function of the jadeite powder content. At a 3% jadeite powder content, the skin temperature increased by about 0.5 ℃ when the jadeite powder-containing formulation was applied to the skin. Besides, the chroma of the liquid foundation containing the jadeite powder more clearly expressed the original color of the skin. Moisture content measurements of the wash-off pack and liquid foundation containing the jadeite powder showed the highest moisture uptake of 5.0% and 63.0%, respectively. In sensorial test, the wash-off pack formulations containing the jadeite powder demonstrated improved affinities toward a skin, adherency, and moistness and combatted itching. The liquid foundation containing jadeite powder showed also improved affinities except for the coverage when compared to control formulations. Furthermore, the stability evaluation for 8 weeks revealed neither discoloration nor separation phenomenon for the formulations containing the jadeite powder. Moreover, the pH was found to be stable up to 8 weeks and the viscosity up to 4 weeks. Skin safety assessments showed that all formulations containing the jadeite powder were non-irritating. These results suggest that the jadeite powder as an inorganic pigment may serve as a new multi-functional cosmetic ingredient with stability and safety.

Keywords:jadeite powder;multi-functional natural materials;physicochemical properties;O/W type formulation;cosmetics

[References]

Ahn JJ, Korean J. Aesthet. Cosmetol., 12(3), 323 (2014)
Kani T, Suzuki T, Tsukada M, Kamiya H, Powder Technol., 176(2-3), 108 (2007)
LOpez-Galindo A, Viseras C, Cerezo P, Appl. Clay Sci., 36, 51 (2007)
Lee HW, Kang SH, Nam KD, J. Korean Oil Chem. Soc., 11(2), 7 (1994)
Kang YS, Kyong KY, Rang MJ, Bae DH, Lee YK, Cho WG, Choi SK, Han SK, 230-230, Shin Kwang Publ., Seoul, Korea (2008).
Kim JD, New Cosmetics, 101-500, Dong Hwa Technol. Publ, Seoul, Korea (2004).
Kim EJ, Kim MJ, Im NR, Park SN, J. Photochem. Photobiol. B-Biol., 149, 196 (2015)
Demir E, Turna F, Vales G, Kaya B, Creus A, Marcos R, Drosophila, Chemosphere., 93, 2304 (2013)
Nohynek GJ, Antignac E, Re T, Toutain H, Toxicol. Appl. Pharmacol., 243, 239 (2010)
Kim DM, Jo BG, Park SJ, Cosmetics containing gem powder, Korean Patent 10-0803941 (2008).
Yun KS, Kim JY, Cosmetic composition for containing jade powder, Korean Patent 10-0441773 (2004).
Heo J, Donguibogam, Bubin Publ., Seoul, Korea (2007).
Lee SJ, Compendium of Materia Medica, Iljoong Publ., Seoul, Korea (1993).
Gemological Institute of America, Gem Reference Guide, ISBN0-87311-019-6 (1988).
Relier A, Wilde PM, Wiedemann HG, J. Therm. Anal., 40, 99 (1993)
Ruvalcaba-Sil JL, Manzanilla L, Melgar E, Lozano R, X-Ray Spectrom., 37(2), 96 (2008)
Harlow GE, Sorensen SS, Int. Geol. Rev., 47(2), 113 (2005)
Prewitt CT, Burnham CW, Am. Mineral., 51, 956 (1966)
Yoo BH, Park CM, Oh TJ, Han SH, Kang HH, Chang IS, J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 175 (2002)
Kieffer SW, Rev. Geophys. Space Phys., 17(1), 20 (1979)
Shimokawa S, Yokono T, Mizuno T, Tamura H, Erata T, Araiso T, Jpn. J. Appl. Phys., 43(4B), 545 (2004)
Leung TK, Huang PJ, Chena YC, Lee CM, J. Chin. Chem. Soc., 58, 653 (2011)
Roovers MMC, Westerkamp R, Blais P, Cosmetic kit and method, US Patent 20030077238 A1 (2003).
Kim JH, Cosmetics which contains nephrite jade powder and process for preparing thereof, Korean Patent 10-0279694 (2000).
Mohammadi FF, Harrison JT, Czarnota A, Leonard C, Nonabrasive sensory exfoliating system, US Patent 2005/0169868A1 (2005).
Geldart D, Abdullah EC, Hassanpour A, Nwoke LC, Wouters I, China Particuology, 4(3-4), 104 (2006)
Kim MY, Cho KD, Kim EJ, Choi SY, Kim SS, Han CK, Lee BH, Korean J. Nutr., 43(5), 453 (2010)
Lee JY, Yang H, Choi WC, J. Korean Soc. Cosmet., 11(2), 73 (2005)
Ko JS, Lee JH, Sung KC, J. Korean Oil Chem. Soc., 29(2), 286 (2012)
Hunter RS, J. Opt. Soc. Am., 38(12), 1094 (1948)

[Referenced By]

[1] Ahn JJ, Korean J. Aesthet. Cosmetol., 12(3), 323 (2014)

[2] Kani T, Suzuki T, Tsukada M, Kamiya H, Powder Technol., 176(2-3), 108 (2007)

[3] LOpez-Galindo A, Viseras C, Cerezo P, Appl. Clay Sci., 36, 51 (2007)

[4] Lee HW, Kang SH, Nam KD, J. Korean Oil Chem. Soc., 11(2), 7 (1994)

[5] Kang YS, Kyong KY, Rang MJ, Bae DH, Lee YK, Cho WG, Choi SK, Han SK, 230-230, Shin Kwang Publ., Seoul, Korea (2008).

[6] Kim JD, New Cosmetics, 101-500, Dong Hwa Technol. Publ, Seoul, Korea (2004).

[7] Kim EJ, Kim MJ, Im NR, Park SN, J. Photochem. Photobiol. B-Biol., 149, 196 (2015)

[8] Demir E, Turna F, Vales G, Kaya B, Creus A, Marcos R, Drosophila, Chemosphere., 93, 2304 (2013)

[9] Nohynek GJ, Antignac E, Re T, Toutain H, Toxicol. Appl. Pharmacol., 243, 239 (2010)

[10] Kim DM, Jo BG, Park SJ, Cosmetics containing gem powder, Korean Patent 10-0803941 (2008).

[11] Yun KS, Kim JY, Cosmetic composition for containing jade powder, Korean Patent 10-0441773 (2004).

[12] Heo J, Donguibogam, Bubin Publ., Seoul, Korea (2007).

[13] Lee SJ, Compendium of Materia Medica, Iljoong Publ., Seoul, Korea (1993).

[14] Gemological Institute of America, Gem Reference Guide, ISBN0-87311-019-6 (1988).

[15] Relier A, Wilde PM, Wiedemann HG, J. Therm. Anal., 40, 99 (1993)

[16] Ruvalcaba-Sil JL, Manzanilla L, Melgar E, Lozano R, X-Ray Spectrom., 37(2), 96 (2008)

[17] Harlow GE, Sorensen SS, Int. Geol. Rev., 47(2), 113 (2005)

[18] Prewitt CT, Burnham CW, Am. Mineral., 51, 956 (1966)

[19] Yoo BH, Park CM, Oh TJ, Han SH, Kang HH, Chang IS, J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 175 (2002)

[20] Kieffer SW, Rev. Geophys. Space Phys., 17(1), 20 (1979)

[21] Shimokawa S, Yokono T, Mizuno T, Tamura H, Erata T, Araiso T, Jpn. J. Appl. Phys., 43(4B), 545 (2004)

[22] Leung TK, Huang PJ, Chena YC, Lee CM, J. Chin. Chem. Soc., 58, 653 (2011)

[23] Roovers MMC, Westerkamp R, Blais P, Cosmetic kit and method, US Patent 20030077238 A1 (2003).

[24] Kim JH, Cosmetics which contains nephrite jade powder and process for preparing thereof, Korean Patent 10-0279694 (2000).

[25] Mohammadi FF, Harrison JT, Czarnota A, Leonard C, Nonabrasive sensory exfoliating system, US Patent 2005/0169868A1 (2005).

[26] Geldart D, Abdullah EC, Hassanpour A, Nwoke LC, Wouters I, China Particuology, 4(3-4), 104 (2006)

[27] Kim MY, Cho KD, Kim EJ, Choi SY, Kim SS, Han CK, Lee BH, Korean J. Nutr., 43(5), 453 (2010)

[28] Lee JY, Yang H, Choi WC, J. Korean Soc. Cosmet., 11(2), 73 (2005)

[29] Ko JS, Lee JH, Sung KC, J. Korean Oil Chem. Soc., 29(2), 286 (2012)

[30] Hunter RS, J. Opt. Soc. Am., 38(12), 1094 (1948)