경옥 가루 표면 개질과 화장품에의 응용을 위한 제형 연구

김용우; 박수남; Yong Woo Kim; Soo Nam Park

Applied Chemistry for Engineering, Vol.30, No.2, 167-177, April, 2019

DOI10.14478/ace.2018.1115 Export Citation

경옥 가루 표면 개질과 화장품에의 응용을 위한 제형 연구

Formulation Studies for Surface Modification and Application to Cosmetics of Jadeite Powder

김용우, 박수남 ^†

서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소

Yong Woo Kim, and Soo Nam Park^†

Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology, 232 Gongneung-ro Nowon-gu, Seoul 01811, Korea

E-mail:

초록

경옥 가루는 화장품 제형에 적용 시 분체의 응집 현상으로 인해 제형 안정성에 영향을 주는 단점이 있다. 이러한 문제점을 개선코자 경옥 가루 표면 개질을 통한 새로운 복합 분체를 개발하였고 이를 고형 밤 파운데이션과 선 스틱에 적용하였다. 본 연구에서는 다양한 표면 개질제 중 triethoxycaprylylsilane을 최적의 성분으로 선정하였고 경옥 가루 복합체를 제조하여 각 제형에 적용하였다. 그 결과 고형 밤 파운데이션에서는 제품 자체 색상에 대한 선명도를 유지해 주는 역할을 했고, 선 스틱의 경우는 UVB 영역에서 기존 대비 약 30% 향상된 자외선 차단 효과를 나타내었다. 관능평가에서 경옥 가루 복합체를 함유하는 제형은 전반적인 지표에서 높은 점수를 나타내었다. 안정성 평가 결과에서는 변색, 변취 및 경도 변화에 대해 안정성이 확인되었다. 결론적으로 경옥 가루 복합체는 무기안료로써 제형 안정성이 확보되었으며, 제품의 색채 선명성 유지 및 자외선 차단제의 부스터 역할도 수행하는 다기능 소재로써 화장품에 응용 가능성이 있음을 확인하였다.

The jadeite powder has a disadvantage affecting the stability of the formulation due to the agglomeration of the powder when applied to cosmetic formulations. To overcome this problem, a new composite powder was prepared by modifying the surface of jadeite powder and applied to foundation pact and sun stick. In this study, a triethoxycaprylylsilane among various surface modifiers was selected as an optimum component, and applied to each formulation by making the jadeite powder composite. As a result, the foundation pact maintained the clarity of the product color, and the sun stick gave about 30% higher UV blocking effect in the UVB area compared with that of the blank. In the user sensory evaluation, the formulation containing the jadeite powder composite showed a high score for the overall indicator. The stability evaluation of the formulation was also confirmed that it was stable against discoloration, detachment and hardness. In conclusion, the jadeite powder composite is stable as an inorganic pigment which is applicable to cosmetics as a multifunctional material while maintaining the color clarity of the product and acting as a booster for sunscreen agents.

Keywords:Jadeite powder;Natural materials;Composite;Cosmetics;Inorganic powder

[References]

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Kani T, Suzuki T, Tsukada M, Kamiya H, Powder Technol., 176(2-3), 108 (2007)
Kang YS, Kyong KY, Rand MJ, Bae DH, Lee YK, Cho WG, Choi SK, Han SK, Science in Cosmetics and Living Health Supplies 1, 230-230, Shin Kwang Publ., Seoul, Korea (2008).
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Kim JH, Cosmetics which contain nephrite jade powder and process for preparing thereof, Korean Patent 10-0279694 (2000).
Yun KS, Kim JY, cosmetic composition for containing jade powder, Korean Patent 10-0441773 (2004).
Relier A, Wilde PM, Wiedemann HG, J. Therm. Anal., 40, 99 (1993)
Prewitte CT, Burnham CW, Am. Mineral., 5, 956 (1966)
Harlow GE, Sorensen SS, Int. Geol. Rev., 47, 113 (2005)
Kim KM, Kim YW, Hong IG, Park SN, Appl. Chem. Eng., 29(1), 81 (2018)
Yoo BH, Park CM, Oh TJ, Han SH, Kang HH, Chang IS, J. Cosmet. Sci., 50, 175 (2002)
Siddiquey IA, Furusawa T, Sato M, Suzuki N, Bull. Mater. Sci., 43, 3416 (2008)
Hunter RS, J. Opt. Soc. Am., 38(12), 1094 (1948)
Ko JS, Lee JH, Sung KC, J. Korean Oil Chem. Soc., 29(2), 286 (2012)
Geldart D, Abdullah EC, Hassanpour A, Nwoke LC, Wouters I, China Particuology, 4(3-4), 104 (2006)
El-Boury S, Couteau C, Boulande L, Paparis E, Coiffard LJM, Int. J. Pharm., 360, 1 (2007)
Wokovich A, Tyner K, Doub W, Sadrieh N, Drug Dev. Ind. Pharm., 35, 1180 (2009)
Grasset F, Saito N, Li D, Park D, Sakaguchi I, Ohashi N, Haneda H, Roisnel T, Mornet S, Duguet E, J. Alloy. Compd., 360, 298 (2003)

[Related Articles]

[1] Ahn JJ, Korean J. Aesthet. Cosmeto., 12(3), 323 (2014)

[2] Kani T, Suzuki T, Tsukada M, Kamiya H, Powder Technol., 176(2-3), 108 (2007)

[3] Kang YS, Kyong KY, Rand MJ, Bae DH, Lee YK, Cho WG, Choi SK, Han SK, Science in Cosmetics and Living Health Supplies 1, 230-230, Shin Kwang Publ., Seoul, Korea (2008).

[4] Lee HW, Kang SH, Nam KD, J. Korean Oil Chem. Soc., 11(2), 7 (1994)

[5] Roovers MMC, Westerkamp R, Blais P, Cosmetic kit and method, US Patent 20030077238 A1 (2003).

[6] Kim JH, Cosmetics which contain nephrite jade powder and process for preparing thereof, Korean Patent 10-0279694 (2000).

[7] Yun KS, Kim JY, cosmetic composition for containing jade powder, Korean Patent 10-0441773 (2004).

[8] Relier A, Wilde PM, Wiedemann HG, J. Therm. Anal., 40, 99 (1993)

[9] Prewitte CT, Burnham CW, Am. Mineral., 5, 956 (1966)

[10] Harlow GE, Sorensen SS, Int. Geol. Rev., 47, 113 (2005)

[11] Kim KM, Kim YW, Hong IG, Park SN, Appl. Chem. Eng., 29(1), 81 (2018)

[12] Yoo BH, Park CM, Oh TJ, Han SH, Kang HH, Chang IS, J. Cosmet. Sci., 50, 175 (2002)

[13] Siddiquey IA, Furusawa T, Sato M, Suzuki N, Bull. Mater. Sci., 43, 3416 (2008)

[14] Hunter RS, J. Opt. Soc. Am., 38(12), 1094 (1948)

[15] Ko JS, Lee JH, Sung KC, J. Korean Oil Chem. Soc., 29(2), 286 (2012)

[16] Geldart D, Abdullah EC, Hassanpour A, Nwoke LC, Wouters I, China Particuology, 4(3-4), 104 (2006)

[17] El-Boury S, Couteau C, Boulande L, Paparis E, Coiffard LJM, Int. J. Pharm., 360, 1 (2007)

[18] Wokovich A, Tyner K, Doub W, Sadrieh N, Drug Dev. Ind. Pharm., 35, 1180 (2009)

[19] Grasset F, Saito N, Li D, Park D, Sakaguchi I, Ohashi N, Haneda H, Roisnel T, Mornet S, Duguet E, J. Alloy. Compd., 360, 298 (2003)